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Bird Cage Outlet has Safe Cages for Everyoone's Budget

BIRD CAGE AND BIRD GYM
 INFORMATION

There is more to buying a bird cage and
bird gym than first meets the eye.

Choosing the right bird cage: There are many things to consider when choosing a bird cage. It will probably be the most expensive purchase you make for your bird or birds. And it will be the place your bird will likely spend the rest of it's life.

Cage Size: Bigger is better. However, not everyone's budget or living space can accommodate a huge cage. Click on CHART to find the recommended cage size for your bird. If your space and budget allow, it's always better to buy a larger cage.

Bar Spacing: Buying a cage with the bar spacing too large could prove hazardous to your bird. It could get it's head stuck between the bars. A cage with the bar spacing too small will limit your birds view and your view of the bird. Click on CHART to find the recommended bar spacing for your bird.

Bar Orientation: The direction or orientation of the cage bars is something to consider. Your bird loves to climb. It will make sense that horizontal cage bars are the most desirable for the cage walls. At least two walls of the cage should be horizontal to allow your bird to climb and hang as it chooses. Vertical bars are difficult for birds to climb. Smooth vertical bars are slippery and birds tend to slip. However, vertical bars are easier to clean since droppings will slide down 1 or 2 bars instead of hitting many bars below.

Bar Gauge: Refers to the actual thickness of the cage bars. This is especially important for larger birds. A bird that is placed in a cage that is designed for a smaller bird could possibly bend the cage bars.

Powder Coating: Will resist cracking and peeling and is extremely resistant to abrasion, corrosion and chemicals. Although powder coated cages are now quite popular, the powder coating method was developed for lawn furniture and some of these formulas contain zinc. Most cages are safe and contain 0-50 ppm (parts per million) zinc, but some cages can have zinc levels over 5,000 ppm, although this is rare. If your budget doesn’t allow for a stainless steel cage or you just don’t like the looks of stainless steel, then powder coating is your next safest and best choice.

Stainless Steel: Stainless steel is defined as steel alloyed with chromium that is highly resistant to stain, rust and corrosion. Note to the buyer: This does not mean stainless steel will never rust or corrode because current technology has not developed any steel which is completely stain or corrosion proof. You can rest assured the stainless steel type and finish selected from our store is the best available for the intended use. Not all stainless steel is the same. When buying a stainless steel cage, be certain it is made of Surgical Grade (304). Type 304 is commonly used for the  food and dairy industry, beverage industries, chemical processing equipment,  heat exchangers and for milder chemicals. It's components are: Chromium 18-20%, Nickel 8-10.5%, Carbon 0.08%, Manganese 2%, Silicon 1%, Manganese —.  Stainless steel cages come hand polished, brushed finished or electropolished to a high gloss finish or machine polished to a lesser sheen.

Electropolishing: This process smoothes and streamlines the microscopic surface of a metal object. The metal is removed ion by ion from the surface of the metal object being polished. In basic terms, the object to be electropolished is immersed in an electrolyte and subjected to a direct electrical current. The object is maintained anodic, with the cathodic connection being made to a nearby metal conductor. As a result, the surface of the metal is microscopically featureless, with not even the smallest speck of a torn surface remaining. The basic metal surface is subsequently revealed – bright, clean and microscopically smooth. By contrast, even a very fine mechanically finished surface will continue to show smears and other directionally oriented patterns or effects.

Playpen Tops: Many parrot cages are now equipped with gyms or playpens on top. This option is nice because it gives your bird a place to be when not confined to a cage, yet it does not take up any more space in your home. Still, it is important to remember that a bird standing above an owner's eye-level is less likely to "obey" (come down, step up, etc.) because they feel "dominant." If you are unsure of your bird's "obedience," or you have a bird that is a biter, screamer, etc., you may want to consider a DomeTop model instead. PlayTop models have approximately 25% less interior room than DomeTop models. Remember, you can always add a free standing play gym to your collection.

Dome Tops: Offers the bird much more (approx. 25%) play space when they are confined to their cage. It is advisable not to have your bird climbing on the top of the cage freely as territoriality and dominance behaviors can result.

Punched/Drilled: A punched cage means a hole was 'punched' or 'drilled' into the  horizontal bar to allow the vertical bar to slide inside. You know a cage is punched when you can move the vertical bars or the vertical bars are not welded at all the horizontal connection points. The problem with this manufacturing process is that the hole is not sealed and allows water inside the hollow support bars. Over time, you may see signs that the cage is rusting from the inside out. This is because the protective powder coating is only on the exterior metal surfaces.

Welded: Unlike a 'punched' cage, all the vertical bar connection points are welded and will not move. When a cage is welded properly, there should not be any areas where water can seep in.

Slide out Grate: This keeps a nice separation between your bird and it's droppings.

Food Access Doors: These doors allow you to access food and water bowels without having to reach inside the cage. Some access doors are solid and others are bars. Solid doors reduce the amount of food and water thrown outside the cage. The access doors are especially important when you have others tend to your bird. They reduce the possibility of your bird escaping and keeps the care giver out of biting range.

Skirts: If you have a messy bird, you will want seed skirts. They extend 5"- 6" on all fours sides of the cage and catch a fair amount of food that would normally end up on the floor. If you are limited in space, you have the option of not attaching the skirts.

Used Cages: Your friend had a bird. Now, that friend has just an empty cage that they offer to you. For the safety of your bird, it is best to decline their thoughtful offer. The probability of its previous occupant having had an infectious disease is too high to risk the life or welfare of your feathered friend. A used cage, regardless of its origin, is a no-no. A bargain cage could be no bargain, only a vet bill or worse.

Cage Location: Place the cage in a warm, bright part of the house close to where the action is but away from drafts. Drafts can cause illness. Adjust heating/cooling vents so they do not blow directly on the cage. Avoid areas of direct sunlight that could cause your bird to overheat. Do not place the cage in the kitchen. Some cooking fumes can be toxic to your bird, heated Teflon in particular. An area with family activity, which provides the bird with the most socialization, is probably the best place to keep your companion. In most homes, the recreation room is the happiest place for the bird.

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